E-bike range calculator (real-world)

Manufacturer range figures are tested under ideal lab conditions: a lightweight rider on flat ground in mild weather at the lowest assist level. Real-world riding almost always falls short of this. The three biggest gaps are rider and cargo weight, terrain, and assist level. A heavier rider on a hilly commute in sport mode might get 40–50% of the advertised range. Cold weather can take another 10–20% off on top of that.

Significantly. Lithium batteries lose capacity in cold temperatures — typically 10–20% below 5°C, and up to 30% in freezing conditions. The effect is temporary: once the battery warms up during the ride, you recover some of that capacity. Storing your battery indoors overnight and fitting it to the bike just before you leave is the single most effective thing you can do in winter.

Yes, directly. Every extra 10kg of total weight (rider, cargo, passengers) increases energy consumption by roughly 5–8% on flat ground and noticeably more on hills. A cargo bike with two children and school bags can easily add 40–60kg over a solo rider, which makes a real difference over a 10–15km commute.

Turbo mode typically uses 2–3× more battery per km than eco mode. For daily commuting where you want predictable range, tour or eco mode is almost always enough except on steep climbs. A practical approach is to ride in eco on flat sections and bump up to sport or turbo only when you need it — this extends range significantly compared to leaving it in a high mode throughout.

Lithium batteries degrade with charge cycles. A battery in its first year typically holds close to its rated capacity. After 2–3 years of daily use, you might have 85–90% of original capacity remaining. After 4–5 years of heavy use, this can drop to 70–80%. Most ebike manufacturers consider 80% remaining capacity the end-of-life point for the battery. If your range has dropped noticeably compared to when the bike was new, battery age is likely a factor.

Wh/km (watt-hours per kilometre) is how much energy your ebike consumes per km of riding. A lower number means a more efficient ride. A typical ebike uses 10–20 Wh/km depending on conditions. Knowing your Wh/km lets you calculate range from any battery size: divide your battery capacity in Wh by your Wh/km figure. It also lets you track whether your battery is degrading over time — the same route using more Wh/km than it used to is a sign the battery is losing capacity.

For maximum daily range, yes. For maximum long-term battery life, no — keeping a lithium battery between 20% and 80% charge extends its lifespan considerably. For most commuters, a pragmatic middle ground is charging to 100% on days when you need full range, and stopping at 80–90% on normal days. Most modern ebike chargers or apps let you set a charge limit for exactly this reason.

The most effective changes in order of impact: use a lower assist level, reduce total weight (lighter bags, less cargo), keep your tyres at the recommended pressure, keep the drivetrain clean and lubed, and store the battery indoors in cold weather. Tyre pressure alone can make a 5–10% difference — an underinflated tyre creates significantly more rolling resistance.

Yes — it's one of the largest variables in range. A flat urban commute might use 12 Wh/km. The same distance with 200m of climbing could use 20–25 Wh/km. Descents recover some energy on bikes with regenerative braking, but most mid-drive ebikes don't have regen, so the energy spent climbing is simply spent.

If your ebike supports it, yes — some bikes allow a second battery to be connected in parallel, effectively doubling your range. Even without integrated dual-battery support, a range extender (a small additional battery that plugs into the charging port) is an option on some systems, particularly Bosch. Check your motor manufacturer's documentation for what's officially supported, as third-party solutions can sometimes void warranties.